Sanpei-jiru is a traditional soup from Hokkaido made by simmering salted fish with vegetables. Salmon, herring, cod, and other fish are commonly combined with ingredients such as daikon radish and potatoes to create a simple yet deeply satisfying dish. It is especially cherished during Hokkaido’s long, cold winter.
Sanpei-jiru is believed to have been enjoyed for more than 200 years, and it is recorded in the late-Edo-period travel literature To-yuki. Several stories have been passed down about the origin of its name. One legend tells of the lord of the Matsumae domain, who encountered a fisherman named Sanpei and was served a soup made by simmering preserved vegetables and salted herring. Another theory connects the name with a type of Arita-yaki ceramic dish called a Sanpei-zara.
The dish developed as a practical way of using fish that had been preserved with salt. Rather than relying on a complicated seasoning, the salted fish itself provides much of the soup’s flavor as it simmers together with vegetables.
There is no single recipe for Sanpei-jiru. Its ingredients and seasonings vary considerably from one part of Hokkaido to another. In central and eastern Hokkaido, salted salmon is commonly used, while salted cod is also popular in northern areas. In the Hiyama region, variations include Shio-sanpei, made with salted walleye pollock, and Miso-sanpei, which uses salted salmon in a miso-based broth.
Modern versions can also feature fresh seasonal fish rather than preserved fish. Some are seasoned simply with salt, while others incorporate miso or sake lees, creating a wide range of regional and seasonal styles. Names such as Haru-sanpei, Tara-sanpei, and Sasage-sanpei may be used according to the season, fish, or vegetables featured in the soup.
Sanpei-jiru is sometimes confused with another famous Hokkaido dish, Ishikari nabe, but the two have an important difference. Ishikari nabe is generally a miso-based hot pot made with fresh salmon, whereas Sanpei-jiru traditionally uses salted or otherwise preserved fish and draws much of its seasoning from the fish itself.
Typical ingredients include salmon, cod, herring, potatoes, and daikon radish, although local recipes may include other seasonal vegetables and fish. The soup is generally light but flavorful, allowing the natural taste of the fish and vegetables to remain at the center of the dish.
Because it is particularly associated with the cold season, Sanpei-jiru is a comforting part of Hokkaido’s winter food culture. Traditionally prepared in homes as well as enjoyed at local eateries, this humble soup offers visitors an authentic taste of the region’s northern culinary traditions.