Hokkaido salmon is one of the island’s most representative seafood specialties. Around Hakodate, salmon is especially prized in autumn, when returning fish bring not only flavorful meat but also the precious salmon roe known as ikura.
Salmon fishing in Hokkaido opens every September, and more than 2,000 tons can be landed during the roughly four-month fishing season.
From September to October, salmon return to the rivers where they were born to spawn. They are caught along the coast using fixed fishing nets. Salmon caught during this annual return are known as aki-zake, or autumn salmon.
One of the greatest attractions of autumn salmon is the ikura carried by female fish. These plump salmon eggs are often described as the “jewels of the sea”, and they are an essential part of Hokkaido’s autumn food culture.
Fresh salmon roe is commonly prepared as soy-sauce-marinated ikura and enjoyed with rice, sushi and other Japanese dishes. During the autumn salmon season, travelers can experience both the rich flavor of the fish and the distinctive texture of its roe.
Salmon can also occasionally be caught in fixed nets outside the main autumn season. These fish are called tokishirazu, a name that literally suggests a salmon that has “mistaken the season” for its return.
Because tokishirazu are immature and have not yet used their energy for spawning, they are often richer in fat than autumn salmon. Their flesh is therefore highly regarded for its rich, flavorful taste.
Aki-zake represents the classic autumn salmon of Hokkaido, returning to its birthplace to spawn and carrying valuable roe. Tokishirazu, by contrast, is prized for its particularly rich and fatty flesh.
For visitors to Hakodate, salmon offers a chance to experience the seasonal rhythm of Hokkaido’s fisheries, from the return of salmon in autumn to the luxurious ikura enjoyed alongside it.
September, October, November and December