Gokko Soup is a traditional local dish from southern Hokkaido made with gokko, a distinctive deep-sea fish also known as smooth lumpsucker or by its Japanese name, hotokeuo. Especially popular around the Hakodate and southern Hokkaido area, this hearty soup is a seasonal specialty enjoyed during the cold winter months.
Gokko has relatively little meat, but its mild, delicate white flesh absorbs the flavor of the broth beautifully. The fish also has a thick, gelatinous layer beneath its skin, giving the finished dish a pleasantly soft and springy texture. When female fish are used, their eggs add a distinctive popping texture and an extra layer of flavor.
Gokko Soup is particularly associated with the Oshima Peninsula in southern Hokkaido, where it is traditionally enjoyed from December through March. Gokko normally lives in deep water and is rarely seen, but during winter it approaches rocky coastal areas to spawn. February is especially known as a peak period for catches.
The fish is generally around 20 to 30 centimeters long and has a distinctive rounded body that can look somewhat like a pufferfish. Its appearance may be unusual, but its mild white flesh and rich gelatinous skin make it highly valued as a winter food.
To prepare the dish, the fish is cleaned and its slimy surface and thin outer skin are removed before it is cut into pieces. With female fish, the roe and liver may also be used. A broth made from kombu seaweed is seasoned with soy sauce, then tofu, long green onions, enoki mushrooms, daikon radish, and sometimes fresh nori seaweed are added.
Because the fish releases moisture as it cooks, the vegetables are often kept relatively modest in quantity and the seasoning is made somewhat stronger. Some households prepare Gokko Soup with miso instead of soy sauce, while potatoes or wakame seaweed may also be added according to local or family tradition.
One of the pleasures of Gokko Soup is its unusual combination of textures. The delicate flesh has a clean, mild taste, while the thick gelatinous skin becomes soft and pleasantly chewy when simmered. The roe of a female gokko provides tiny bursts of texture that contrast with the tender fish and warm broth.
Most of the fish bones are exceptionally soft and can be eaten, adding to the dish’s hearty character. The suckers on the fish are also edible, although recipes and individual preferences may differ regarding how they are prepared.
Female gokko carrying roe are more expensive than males and may cost roughly twice as much, making roe-filled fish particularly prized. The rich combination of fish, gelatinous skin, roe, and warm broth makes this a comforting dish well suited to Hokkaido’s cold winter climate.
For travelers exploring Hakodate and southern Hokkaido, Gokko Soup offers a chance to experience a regional food culture that is deeply connected to the area’s winter fishing traditions. Its unusual appearance, distinctive texture, and warming flavor make it one of the more memorable local dishes to discover.