Matsumaezuke is a traditional preserved food from southern Hokkaido, particularly associated with the town of Matsumae. It combines dried squid and kombu seaweed with a savory soy sauce-based seasoning, creating a flavorful dish with a distinctive chewy and crunchy texture.
The dish is said to have originated around the former Matsumae Domain. Originally, it was a way of preserving abundant herring roe, or kazunoko, by combining it with dried squid and kombu and curing the ingredients in salt. Over time, kazunoko became a luxury ingredient, and versions centered on dried squid and kombu became increasingly common.
The seasoning also changed over the years. While early versions were preserved primarily with salt, modern Matsumaezuke is generally seasoned with soy sauce, sake, mirin, and sugar, creating a milder and more approachable sweet-savory flavor.
Depending on the region or producer, ingredients such as carrots, ginger, chili peppers, daikon radish, turnips, yuzu peel, or wild mountain vegetables may be added. There are many variations, but traditional Matsumaezuke from the Matsumae area is said not to include these additional ingredients.
The main ingredients traditionally associated with Matsumaezuke are kazunoko herring roe, dried squid, and kombu. The dried squid and kombu are finely sliced before being marinated in the seasoning, allowing the flavors to gradually develop as the ingredients absorb the sauce.
Kazunoko adds a characteristic crisp, popping texture, while dried squid provides a pleasant chewiness. Kombu contributes its natural umami and a slightly sticky texture, resulting in a delicacy with several contrasting sensations in every bite.
During the late Edo period and into the Meiji era, herring fishing flourished in Hokkaido. Large quantities of herring roe were available, and kazunoko was an important ingredient in preserved foods. As the availability and price of kazunoko changed, dried squid and kombu gradually became more prominent in Matsumaezuke.
Today, Matsumae Town and neighboring Fukushima Town are among the areas of Hokkaido known for squid production, and Matsumaezuke remains particularly popular throughout southern Hokkaido.
Matsumaezuke has long been valued as a winter preserved food and is also commonly served as part of New Year’s cuisine in Japan. Its long-lasting nature made it especially practical during the cold season, while its rich flavor made it a welcome accompaniment to rice.
Today, it is enjoyed in many ways. Matsumaezuke makes an excellent side dish with steamed rice, while its savory umami flavor also makes it a popular accompaniment to drinks. Because individual shops and producers use different seasoning blends and ingredient combinations, trying several versions can reveal surprisingly different flavors.
Matsumaezuke is more than a simple preserved food. Its combination of seafood, kombu, soy sauce, and traditional preservation techniques reflects the long history of fishing and food culture in southern Hokkaido.
For travelers exploring Hakodate, Matsumae, and the wider southern Hokkaido region, this distinctive delicacy offers an easy way to experience the area’s culinary heritage. The combination of chewy dried squid, flavorful kombu, and crisp herring roe makes Matsumaezuke a memorable taste of Hokkaido.