Muroran Yakitori is a distinctive local specialty from Muroran, Hokkaido. Despite its name, “yakitori,” which normally means grilled chicken skewers in Japan, Muroran Yakitori is traditionally made with pork rather than chicken.
The classic combination consists of tender pork and onion threaded alternately onto a skewer. It is typically brushed with a sweet and savory sauce and served with a generous touch of Japanese-style Western mustard. The combination of juicy pork, sweet onion and sharp mustard has become an iconic part of Muroran’s food culture.
The history of Muroran Yakitori dates back to around 1937. At the time, farmers in the region began raising pigs as food production was encouraged during the Sino-Japanese War. As pig farming became established in Muroran, pork was increasingly consumed locally.
Street stalls around the city’s industrial and steelworks districts began selling grilled skewers made from pork offal and other ingredients. Wild birds were also sometimes grilled on skewers, and these foods came to be called “yakitori.” As pork became more readily available, it was increasingly used for the skewers, but the familiar name yakitori remained.
Over time, the combination of pork, onion and mustard became the signature style of Muroran Yakitori. The onion was a natural choice because Hokkaido-grown onions pair exceptionally well with pork and were relatively affordable and readily available.
Among the many street stalls that once served grilled skewers around the steelworks, Toriyoshi is traditionally regarded as the originator of Muroran Yakitori.
For visitors to Japan, the name can be confusing. In most parts of the country, yakitori refers specifically to chicken grilled on skewers. In Muroran and parts of southern Hokkaido, however, ordering “yakitori” has traditionally meant pork and onion skewers.
Today, restaurants may use terms such as “buta-sei” or “buta-seiniku” for pork skewers and “tori-sei” or “tori-seiniku” for chicken skewers to make the distinction clear.
Muroran Yakitori is generally made with pork shoulder loin rather than the belly meat often associated with pork skewers. The meat is cut into bite-sized pieces, while the onion is cut into wedges. The two ingredients are then threaded alternately onto skewers.
Each restaurant has its own recipe for the dipping or brushing sauce, creating subtle differences in flavor from one establishment to another. The skewers are commonly served with mustard, although salt-seasoned versions are also available for those who prefer a simpler taste.
Muroran Yakitori can be enjoyed throughout the year at izakaya pubs and specialty restaurants. It is also deeply connected with everyday local dining culture. When family members or friends gather, it is not unusual for people to order Muroran Yakitori to take home and make the skewers the centerpiece of a shared meal.
The appeal of this local specialty is wonderfully simple: juicy grilled pork, sweet onion, a savory sauce and a sharp touch of mustard. For travelers visiting Muroran, trying its famous “yakitori” is an excellent way to discover a food tradition that looks familiar at first glance but is unmistakably Hokkaido once you take your first bite.