Nishin-zuke is a traditional preserved food from Hokkaido and the Tohoku region of northern Japan. Made by fermenting herring and vegetables with rice koji and salt, it was traditionally prepared to provide food during the long, harsh winter.
Unlike heavily salted pickles, Nishin-zuke uses a relatively moderate amount of salt. As the ingredients are left to ferment with rice koji over an extended period, the dish develops a pleasant acidity and a distinctive herring flavor. The combination of naturally sweet vegetables and the rich umami of herring creates a satisfying taste, while the vegetables retain a pleasantly crisp texture.
In Hokkaido, many households traditionally began preparing Nishin-zuke in late autumn. A typical preparation contains generous amounts of herring, cabbage, daikon radish and carrot, with large-headed Sapporo cabbage often used for its substantial leaves.
Nishin-zuke is more than a traditional winter dish. It also reflects the history of Hokkaido’s once-thriving herring fishing industry.
From the late Edo period through the Meiji period, herring fishing flourished particularly along the Sea of Japan coast of Hokkaido. Every spring, enormous schools of herring came close to shore to spawn. The phenomenon was known as kuki, when so many fish gathered that the surface of the sea could appear almost white.
Herring catches reached their peak during the Meiji period, at one point approaching one million tons per year. However, from around the 1950s, the appearance of spawning herring declined dramatically, and large-scale herring fishing virtually disappeared.
Today, some herring are still caught around lakes and coastal waters, including the Akkeshi area, but catches remain far below the levels of the industry’s heyday.
When herring was plentiful, preserving food for the winter was an essential part of everyday life. Herring caught in spring was processed into miki-nishin, or dried herring fillets, and stored until late autumn.
Before winter arrived, the dried herring was combined with vegetables and fermented to make Nishin-zuke. The dish became a familiar household food throughout Hokkaido, particularly in communities where herring fishing had once supported local economies.
Although the abundance of herring has long since disappeared, Nishin-zuke continues to be enjoyed as a traditional Hokkaido winter food, preserving a culinary connection to the region’s fishing heritage.
Traditional preparation begins by soaking dried herring for one to two days in water containing dissolved wood ash or in rice-rinsing water. The herring is then thoroughly washed, descaled and cut into pieces approximately 4–5 cm long.
The herring is layered with rice koji, salt, cabbage, daikon radish and carrot. Some households also add finely sliced red chili peppers or green peppers. The ingredients may be arranged in layers in a pickling container, or mixed together before being placed inside. A weight is traditionally placed on top to press the ingredients down during fermentation.
Daikon is often partially dried until it becomes flexible, cabbage is roughly chopped, and carrots are cut into thin strips. As the mixture ferments over time, the rice koji encourages fermentation and gradually develops a mellow acidity while enhancing the herring’s rich aroma and umami.
In the past, Nishin-zuke was sometimes stored in relatively warm places, and during the coldest part of winter the water contained in the vegetables could freeze. This created a distinctive crisp, almost crunchy texture that was part of the traditional winter experience.
Today, most households use refrigerators or other modern storage methods instead. While fewer families make Nishin-zuke from scratch, it is still widely available in supermarkets and other shops throughout Hokkaido.
The Rumoi region of northern Hokkaido has a particularly strong connection with Nishin-zuke and the traditional processing of dried herring. Local knowledge of preparing miki-nishin has been passed down through generations, and pickled products made with dried herring can still be found at local vegetable shops and other stores.
For travelers exploring northern Hokkaido, Nishin-zuke offers an opportunity to taste a traditional food that combines the flavors of herring and vegetables with the subtle character created through fermentation. It is a simple yet deeply rooted expression of Hokkaido’s fishing history and winter food culture.
Herring, daikon radish, cabbage, carrot and red chili pepper are the principal ingredients used in Nishin-zuke.