Hiyajiru in Yamagata Prefecture is a traditional local dish made with seasonal vegetables and preserved dried ingredients. Despite its name, which literally suggests a “cold soup,” Yamagata-style Hiyajiru is not actually a soup. It is closer to a generous vegetable dish dressed with a flavorful broth made from dried scallops and dried shiitake mushrooms.
Surrounded by snow-covered mountains, Yamagata has long developed a food culture that makes good use of preserved ingredients and vegetables harvested throughout the seasons. Hiyajiru is one example of this tradition, combining the rich umami of dried foods with the freshness of seasonal vegetables.
Hiyajiru is traditionally said to have originated as a type of field food prepared for samurai of the Yonezawa Domain, which was ruled by the Uesugi clan. It is also said to have been served to warriors during ceremonies held before military campaigns.
Over time, the dish became part of local culinary traditions and was also served for New Year’s celebrations, weddings, funerals, and other important occasions. During the New Year season, it is often prepared with Yukina, a traditional vegetable from the Yonezawa area. Dishes may even be named after their main ingredient, such as “Yukina Hiyajiru.”
Although Hiyajiru was once associated with special occasions, it is also enjoyed as a home-style dish today. The vegetables and seasonings used can vary from one household to another, giving each family its own distinctive version of Hiyajiru.
To prepare Hiyajiru, dried scallops and dried shiitake mushrooms are first soaked in water, and the soaking liquid is used as a flavorful broth. Dried scallops are typically soaked overnight and then shredded along their natural fibers. The rehydrated shiitake mushrooms are thinly sliced, while frozen-and-dried konnyaku is rehydrated in hot water and cut into bite-sized pieces.
The soaking liquid is seasoned with soy sauce and mirin, and the prepared ingredients are briefly simmered in it. After the cooking liquid has cooled, the ingredients are combined with seasonal vegetables that have been boiled and cut into convenient pieces. The chilled broth is then poured over the vegetables and mixed together.
Yukina is a traditional vegetable that has been cultivated in the Yonezawa area for generations. Before the arrival of heavy snowfall, it is harvested once and then covered with straw and soil. The flower stalks continue to grow under the snow, producing Yukina with a crisp texture and a distinctive sharp, refreshing flavor.
Another characteristic ingredient is frozen-dried konnyaku, a preserved food made by freezing and drying konnyaku. It has a unique, pleasantly chewy texture. If it is difficult to find, other preserved ingredients such as kōri-dōfu, a type of freeze-dried tofu, can sometimes be used as a substitute when preparing the dish at home.
Hiyajiru can be prepared with a variety of seasonal vegetables, including cabbage and spinach, in addition to Yukina. The savory broth made from dried ingredients enhances the natural flavors of the vegetables, allowing the freshness and character of each ingredient to shine.
Dishes called Hiyajiru can be found in various parts of Japan. In many regions, the name refers to a cold soup seasoned with dashi, miso, or other ingredients, and it is particularly associated with summer.
Yamagata-style Hiyajiru is different. Rather than being a soup, it is essentially a dish of seasonal vegetables dressed with a broth made from dried ingredients. The fact that dishes with the same name can have completely different forms depending on the region makes Hiyajiru an especially interesting example of Japan’s diverse local food culture.
Combining the traditional wisdom of preserving food with the seasonal vegetables of Yamagata, Yamagata-style Hiyajiru offers a taste of the region’s history and everyday life. When visiting the Yonezawa area, trying this distinctive local dish is a wonderful way to discover another side of Yamagata’s rich culinary heritage.