Honnoji Manju is a traditional Japanese sweet preserved by Sohonke Surugaya, one of Wakayama’s historic confectionery shops. Its distinctive flavor combines a subtle sake-like aroma, a soft and pleasantly chewy dough, and an elegant sweet red bean paste filling.
With a history stretching back more than 560 years, Honnoji Manju is deeply connected with the culinary culture and history of Wakayama. It was cherished by the Kishu-Tokugawa family and is traditionally said to have been carried as a travel food during the long journeys of the daimyo’s alternate attendance journeys between their domain and Edo.
Today, it remains one of Wakayama’s most distinctive traditional sweets, offering visitors a taste of a confectionery tradition that has survived from the Muromachi period to the present day.
One of the most recognizable features of Honnoji Manju is the character “本” (hon) stamped onto the surface of each bun.
There are several explanations for the origin of this mark. One traditional interpretation connects it with the teaching associated with the Kishu-Tokugawa family: “honesty should be the foundation”, expressing the importance of sincerity and integrity.
The Okamoto family, founders of the Surugaya confectionery tradition, also valued the family motto “live for confectionery”. Their wholehearted dedication to making sweets is reflected symbolically in the character “本.”
As a result, the mark is more than a simple decorative stamp. It can be regarded as a symbol of the integrity, pride, and craftsmanship that have been preserved by generations of confectioners.
Honnoji Manju is made using a method quite different from that of many modern manju sweets.
While ordinary manju often use a dough based primarily on wheat flour, Honnoji Manju is made using glutinous rice and rice koji.
The rice and koji are carefully fermented over time, creating a gentle sake-like aroma and rich savory depth. The resulting dough has a unique texture somewhere between a traditional steamed bun and mochi: soft, moist, and pleasantly chewy.
This method has traditionally been passed down orally from one generation to the next and has been carefully preserved for hundreds of years.
Because fermentation changes according to temperature and humidity, the craftsmen closely inspect the condition of the koji in the morning and evening. Their experience is essential to maintaining the consistency of the traditional flavor.
The fermentation temperature and firmness of the dough are among the most important factors in making Honnoji Manju.
Fermentation progresses more quickly in summer and more slowly in winter, so the craftsmen must adjust the process according to the conditions of each day.
It is difficult to determine the ideal condition of the dough using measurements alone. In the final stages, the craftsmen rely on the experience, senses, and intuition they have developed over many years.
Once the dough has been carefully prepared, it is wrapped around the smooth koshi-an, or finely strained sweet red bean paste. The buns are then allowed to undergo another stage of fermentation before being gently steamed.
Finally, the distinctive “本” mark is stamped onto each bun, completing the traditional Honnoji Manju.
This time-consuming process, in which craftsmanship is valued above speed and efficiency, is one of the reasons the sweet has remained beloved for so many generations.
Honnoji Manju is traditionally said to have been carried by members of the Kishu-Tokugawa family during their sankin-kotai journeys during the Edo period.
Sankin-kotai was the system under which feudal lords were required to alternate between residing in their domains and spending time in Edo, present-day Tokyo. These journeys could be long and demanding, making foods that could be carried and stored particularly valuable.
Honnoji Manju was appreciated as a convenient food for the journey, providing nourishment while traveling along the road.
At a time when modern preservation and convenience foods did not exist, such traditional sweets played an important practical role as well as being enjoyed as treats.
For this reason, Honnoji Manju is more than simply a confectionery. It is also a small but tangible connection to the history and culture of the Kishu region.
The history of Sohonke Surugaya, the confectionery shop that preserves Honnoji Manju, dates back to 1461, during the Muromachi period.
The business was originally founded in Fushimi, Kyoto, under the name “Tsuruya.” It later moved to Wakayama in connection with Tokugawa Yorinobu, founder of the Kishu branch of the Tokugawa family.
Surugaya is also known for creating what is regarded as Japan’s first neri-yokan, a firm style of sweet bean jelly. The yokan presented to Toyotomi Hideyoshi was highly praised and went on to influence the development of Japanese confectionery culture.
The shop subsequently flourished as the official confectioner serving the Kishu domain and produced numerous famous sweets, including Honnoji Manju and Wakaura Senbei rice crackers.
Despite experiencing major changes in society and periods of business difficulty over the centuries, the confectionery tradition has continued into the present day.
For many people in Wakayama, Honnoji Manju is more than a traditional sweet—it is also a taste associated with childhood and family memories.
Different households have their own favorite ways of enjoying it. Some people steam the buns again before eating them, while others lightly grill them to bring out a more fragrant, toasted flavor.
Some families are even said to enjoy Honnoji Manju as an ingredient in sukiyaki, demonstrating just how creatively the sweet has become part of local food culture.
A traditional flavor passed down through generations naturally becomes connected with everyday life, family gatherings, and personal memories.
In this sense, Honnoji Manju is not merely a Japanese confectionery. It serves as a link between regional history, food culture, craftsmanship, and the memories of local people.
Wakayama is home to many famous local specialties, but Honnoji Manju stands out for its exceptionally long history and deep cultural connections.
The gentle aroma created by rice koji fermentation, the soft and chewy texture, the refined sweetness of the red bean paste, and the meaningful “本” mark all come together in a single traditional sweet.
Behind every bun lies more than five centuries of confectionery history, as well as the accumulated skills and dedication of generations of craftsmen.
For travelers visiting Wakayama, trying Honnoji Manju is a delicious way to experience a small but fascinating part of the region’s history.
Take a bite and discover the craftsmanship, traditions, and stories that have allowed this distinctive Wakayama confectionery to survive for more than 560 years.